How many islands are there
The Union Territory of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands has 836 islands and islets, and only 31 of them are permanently inhabited. The Andaman group lies in the north, the Nicobar group in the south, separated by the Ten Degree Channel, a strait about 150 km wide. Travellers spend almost all their time in the Andaman group, and mostly in a small part of it.
So which island is best to visit in Andaman? There is no single answer, but most first trips combine Port Blair with Swaraj Dweep and Shaheed Dweep. If you have more time, add Baratang or a trip north.
South Andaman and Port Blair
Port Blair, officially renamed Sri Vijaya Puram in 2024, is where flights and ships arrive and where most ferries depart. It is a working town rather than a beach resort, but it is worth a day.
The Cellular Jail is the town's best known landmark. Built by the British around the turn of the twentieth century, it held prisoners in solitary cells and is now a national memorial and museum to India's independence movement. Plan a visit in the afternoon or early evening, and check current opening times locally.
Corbyn's Cove is the nearest beach to the town. South of Port Blair, the Chidiyatapu area is a wildlife sanctuary. For more beaches near the capital and on other islands, see the best beaches in Andaman.
Swaraj Dweep (Havelock Island)
Swaraj Dweep, still widely called Havelock Island, lies in Ritchie's Archipelago about 41 km northeast of Port Blair. In December 2018 it was renamed as a tribute to Subhas Chandra Bose. It is the most visited island after South Andaman and the main base for diving and snorkelling.
Its best known beach is Radhanagar Beach, also called Beach No. 7, on the west coast. Elephant Beach on the northwest coast is reached by boat or on foot and is popular for snorkelling. The island has PADI and SSI dive schools; see scuba diving in the Andaman Islands for how to choose one.
Shaheed Dweep (Neil Island)
What is Neil Island's new name? Since December 2018 it has been Shaheed Dweep. The island is small, about 13.7 square km, roughly 3.7 km long and 6.3 km wide, and about 36 km northeast of Port Blair. It is quieter than Swaraj Dweep and easy to explore by bicycle or scooter.
Laxmanpur Beach faces the sunset, Bharatpur Beach has shallow water suited to swimming, and the island's Natural Bridge, a limestone rock arch, is its most photographed sight.
Neil Island or Havelock Island: which is better
It depends on what you want. Swaraj Dweep has more places to stay, more dive schools and the famous beaches, and it is busier. Shaheed Dweep is slower, smaller and good for two relaxed days. Most travellers who have the time visit both, usually Havelock first and Neil second on the way back to Port Blair.
Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island (Ross Island)
Ross Island, renamed Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island in December 2018, is a tiny island of about 0.3 square km at the entrance to Port Blair's harbour, about 3 km east of the town centre. From 1858 it was the base of the British penal settlement and the administrative centre of the islands until the British left in the mid 1940s.
Today you walk among the ruins of a church, a bakery, a hospital, a swimming pool and Government House, partly overgrown by trees, with spotted deer and peacocks around. The island is maintained by the Indian Navy and no one lives there.
Baratang and the north
Baratang Island lies north of Port Blair on the Andaman Trunk Road, the road that runs on towards Rangat and Mayabunder. It is known for mud volcanoes, limestone caves and mangrove creeks, and for Parrot Island. Most visitors go as a long day trip from Port Blair.
Part of the route north passes through forest that is home to the Jarawa, one of the islands' indigenous peoples. Rules for travellers on this stretch are strict and enforced: no stopping, no photography and no contact. Follow them exactly and check the current arrangements before you go.
Further north lie Rangat, Mayabunder and Diglipur. These areas see far fewer tourists and need more time, but they reward travellers who want quiet beaches and forest.
Places you cannot visit
Some islands are closed to visitors by law. Entry to North Sentinel Island is banned, and the government and Coast Guard prohibit approaching within 3 nautical miles of it. The island's people have refused contact, and the ban protects both them and visitors.
Why can't we visit Nicobar Islands? Much of the Nicobar group lies within tribal reserves, and these reserves are off limits without special permission. Access for tourists there is very limited and the rules change, so check with the administration before planning anything south of the Ten Degree Channel. The permits guide explains the rules in more detail.
Once you have chosen your islands, read how to reach the Andaman Islands to plan ferries between them.